Keuka Lake Vineyards

     With the four walls closing in on us after this frigid, long winter, Jim and I decided to investigate some new-to-us wineries. Last Saturday

we set out to do just that. We stopped by Keuka Lake Vineyards in Hammondsport, NY on the recommendation of Sebastien Leseurre from Domaine LeSeurre Winery.
     Keuka Lake Vineyards is located on the south west shore of Keuka Lake near Dr. Frank, Bully Hill and Heron Hill Vineyards. It is the old Taylor Wine Co. land now owned by Mel Goldman. The tasting room is actually the barn on the old Taylor vineyard land; the original Taylor homestead is right across the street. Mel came in as we were having a tasting with the extremely knowledgeable and personable Leandra Morris, Tasting Room Manager.
     We started the tasting with the 2012 Dry Riesling, Falling Man Vineyard, which earned 91 points in Wine Spectator! This complex Riesling has minerality, citrus and honey/flower characteristics.  Definitely something special to try! The other Rieslings include the 2012 Estate Dry Riesling, the 2013 Evergreen Lek Dry Riesling and the 2013 Semi-Dry Riesling. Both Jim and I agree that our favorite was the Evergreen Lek with it's green apple and peach notes along with the citrus.  It was enjoyable to have the opportunity to compare and discuss them with Leandra and Mel. Next we sampled the Vignoles. The Vignoles grape is a hybrid grape originating in France (comprised of either Pinot Noir or Chardonnay and a hybrid Seibel variety). The 2013 Amber Vignoles is what some refer to as an Orange Wine. This was a really fun, deceptive wine. The nose gave every indication that it would be somewhat sweet, but it hit the palate dry and spirit-like (scotch/whiskey).  It changed and morphed on the palate- quite a shocker! The next tasting was the 2013 Gently Dry Vignoles, a much more traditional Vignoles and great summer-sipper with fruit and pineapple essences. The final Vignoles we tried was the 2011 Vignoles and Friends which is semi-sweet and lighter.  (We bought one for our daughter who likes sweeter wines, as this comes across initially on the sweeter side, but the acidity lingers).
     On to the Reds! We enjoyed the KLV Red and the 2014 Leon Millot Nouveau. This is a first Nouveau for the vineyard. These grapes were harvested in September and spend little time in their stainless tanks before being released in November! Nicely fruit forward and smooth, this pleasant wine  has its own cult following! Next we compared the 2012 and 2013 Cabernet Francs. Because of the difference in the growing seasons, these two vintages are very different, but delicious.  Mel told us that it is about a 50/50 split on which people prefer: the deep color and robust spiciness of the 2012 or the lighter colored, complex 2013. We both actually liked the 2013, feeling that it is a slightly better compliment for different foods. Lastly, we sampled the 2013 Hammondsport, a blend of Pinot Noir and Leon Millot grapes in a delicious port-like wine.
     Mel asked us to do a blind sampling of a white wine to determine which Riesling it most resembled. (I believe there was confusion about which Riesling barrel it was pulled from). We thought it most reminded us of the Falling Man Vineyard Riesling due to the mineral notes. I wonder what it actually was!
     We were impressed by all the wines we sampled and we totally enjoyed the time spent with Leandra and Mel. Keuka Lake Vineyards is definitely on our return-to list so we can sample the chocolate and wine flight they also offer!

The Burning of the Canes at Fox Run Vineyards!

We went to Fox Run Vineyards this past Saturday ( March 14 ) to attend the Burning of the Canes.  This symbolic event (accompanied by a feast) ushers Spring into the vineyard.  The canes that were pruned following the fall harvest are burned to celebrate the previous year's work and the upcoming year. With the mounds of snow from our historically below-average temperatures of February finally melting, bonfire pits to warm our outsides, and wonderful food by Chef Brud Holland to warm our insides, the event was just the right thing to chase away the winter blues. Great music by Rob and Gary accompanied the food as well as lots of Riesling -even hot mulled!

Let me take a minute to describe the food Brud Holland prepared.  There was the Wine Barrel Smoked Sausage that you could dunk in maple syrup or top with Brud's own outrageous mustards.  Check out the photo of the unique wine barrel smoker!  Accompaniments included pan-fried potatoes cooked on a special grilling table made by Sam Castner, homemade apple sauce, Potato Chowder with Lemburger Cheddar Croutons, marshmallows for roasting, hot chocolate, Mulled (Riesling) Wine, and Cayuga Creamery Salted Caramel and Marshmallow Ice Cream!

Fox Run owner Scott Osborn tells us that because there were no freezing/thawing events during February, the snow cover acted as an insulator, therefore reducing any negative impact on the vines.  Now if we can get through March and April without any temperature dips as the buds break, the vintage will be off to a good start.


I hope so because Winston is quickly becoming a wine connoisseur!

Glorious Garlic Festival at Fox Run Vineyards

Winston wishes he could taste the Hedonia wine we sampled at Fox Run Vineyards during their 22nd Annual Glorious Garlic Festival (August 2, and 3)  Either that or he is mad at us for not taking him!  But if we had, we never would have made it to the wine tasting tent and had a sit down tasting with Peter Bell, Winemaker extraodinaire.  We learned how the Chardonnay grape can produce two very different tasting wines.  First we sampled the Un-oaked Chardonnay which is aged in stainless steel tanks.  This produces a refreshing, crisp, light, fruit forward, dry wine that is very drinkable by itself on the deck or with food. Next we sampled the Reserve Chardonnay which is aged in French and American oak barrels to create that rich mouth feel and buttery, creamy wine that we love so much with seafood. Fox Run's Reserve Chardonnay is well balanced - no overpowering oak here.  Peter tells us that it is the malolactic fermentation that the Oaked Chardonnay goes through that coverts the malice acid (think green apple tartness) to lactic acid ( fuller mouth feel and buttery notes). That explains why the Un-oaked has the tartness and crispness (and is the same reason a Riesling or Gewurztraminer is crisp, tart and fruit-forward) - no malolactic fermentation! 

Next we tried the Hedonia.  This fortified wine occupies a unique niche. If you like Gewurztraminer, you will like this wine as it is made from the Traminette grape - relative of the Gewürztraminer grape.  Peter feels the best way to drink it is before dinner (as an aperitif) to wake up your taste buds. And simpler is better - on the rocks with a twist of orange.  Ways to mix it to create other cocktails are on the Fox Run website, but we really enjoyed sipping it alone and well chilled.  At 20% alcohol and with 9% residual sugar, it is delicious, serious and needs to be experienced!

Of course, there were many things garlic at the Garlic Festival, too.  Local garlic cheeses, pickles, sauces, and crafts along with the music of various bands.  A great way to spend a hot August weekend! 

We tired Winston out just talking about it!

(Think LLBean will want him as a poster child?)

Welcome Winston!

Here is our newest wine retriever, Winston!  

Maggie likes him, too!

2012 Tierce is here!

     What view from the deck at Red Newt Wine Cellars on  July 5th where the 2012 Tierce was released! Tierce began as the cooperative efforts of three Finger Lakes winemakers: Peter Bell of Fox Run, Johannes Reinhardt of Anthony Road and Dave Whiting of Red Newt in 2005. The "Tierce Brothers" have grown to encompass six winemakers now (and some are women)!  However the collaboration of the various winemakers from different locations on Seneca Lake is unique to wine regions of the world.

      Jim and I arrived as several other cars were pulling into the large parking lot behind the winery.  It was a gorgeous July night: low humidity, a cloudless sky, and a refreshing breeze. The tasting room doors and windows were open allowing the light breeze to keep everyone comfortable.  We were directed to begin the evening by sampling three favorite summer wines:  Anthony Road's Pinot Gris, Fox Run's Rosé Lemberger and Red Newt's Gewurtztraminer. We took our first sample of the crisp, light Pinot Gris out on the deck to enjoy the scenery of the southeast side of Seneca Lake. We also were able to sample the perfectly chilledPinot Lemberger, which I absolutely love.  We were just finishing the Gewurtztraminer with its lovely floral nose and lychee finish when we were called to the tasting room for the Tierce unveiling.

     Bob Madill introduced the featured speaker, Stewart Piggot.  Piggot began by discussing his new book, Best White Wines on Earth, and told of the metamorphous of people's views of Riesling and how other parts of the world have caught on to to the merits of Riesling.  Riesling is no longer associated with an over-the-top sweet wine, but can range from bone dry to a super sweet dessert wine.  And the Finger Lakes shines in Riesling production.   Next, the Tierce Brothers were introduced: Johannes Reinhardt, Peter Bell and Kelby Russell (from Red Newt).  Each discussed the nuances of their dry rieslings that went into the Tierce blend.  

      Jim and I were eager to try each ourselves, so when the speeches were over, we were poured a sample of each and we took them to the deck to taste. I don't have the best palate, so my impressions were:  Fox Run's flavors hit immediately and were the brightest, Red Newt's flavors developed slowly and pleasantly and were strongest in the middle. Anthony Road's citrus flavors started strong, faded a bit in the middle and then came back to finish with lingering vanilla or almond.  Jim felt Fox Run was the most flavorful and he enjoyed the balance of Anthony Road's as well.  He felt Fox Run and Red Newt's wines had slight petrol notes.  All were delightful and we wondered how they would be when  blended.

      Finally the Tierce was revealed, and we were amazed at the synergistic effect the three dry Rieslings had on each other.  I could taste Fox Run's initial flavor burst, Red Newt's citrus/mineral notes in the middle and Anthony Road's lingering vanilla notes at the end.  Truly this wine showcased the best of the three components.   

      As we finished our Tierce Dry Riesling, we asked Johannes Reinhardt about the possibility of another Tierce Red.  He said that the quality of the vintage will decide whether the winemakers get together to make a red blend like they did in 2007.  Who knows - 2010 was a really good year….

Great Little Secret on Canandaigua Lake

       Friday night Jim and I stopped by the Heron Hill Tasting Room located at their Ingle Vineyard site on Canandaigua Lake. I saw a sign outside saying they had wood fired pizza and a band on certain Friday nights and Saturday afternoons.  Since this tasting room is exactly 10 minutes from our house, it seemed like a great idea to try out.  We were not disappointed!

      There appeared to be a diverse group of people from across the United States attending by the looks of the license plates in the lot.  I'm sure many were staying at Bristol Harbour right down the road.  The band, Aaron Lipp and Gabe Schiffler, had just started playing when we arrived.  Unfortunately, the pizza oven was a bit behind, so Jim and I went up to the tasting room to sample wines while we waited.  We really enjoyed the Reserve Pinot Blanc 2012, the Ingle Vineyard Unoaked Chardonnay 2012 and the Reserve Gewurztriminer 2012 of the white wine selections.  In the reds, the Classic Cabernet Franc 2010 (a great year for reds) and the Ingle Vineyard Cabernet Franc 2011 were very different, but both delicious. The Reserve Blaufrankisch 2011 was out of this world if you like Blaufrankisch (a.k.a Lemberger).  Their Eclipse Red 2010 is a red blend of Cabernet Franc (60 something percent), Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot and aged 22 months in French, Eastern European and American Oak barrels.  For $16.99 it is a sweet deal and remember it is a 2010 vintage!  Their Eclipse White 2011 is also a very nice blend of Unoaked Chardonnay (60%), Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris.  It is a dry .05% RS  and a bargain at $14.99.  Nice for the deck on a hot afternoon or with dinner.

       Later, with pizza in hand and a glass of Cabernet Franc from the outside bar (you could get beer, too), we sat looking at the glorious view of the sunset, theVineyard and the Lake.  It doesn't get much better than that!

                                     

Great wines

      We opened a Red Tail Ridge 2010 Blaufrankisch tonight. We paired it with Italian sausage and pepper and onions. Usually Jim will pick out the wine, but he wanted a chance to try to figure out what was chosen, so I went to the wine cellar to make my pick.  He guessed it was a Lemberger (Blaufrankisch) because of the black peppery finish, heavy blackberry/current notes and plenty of tannins.  "It is almost woody" he said, wondering if it was crushed with the stems. Because of the peppery notes and acidity, it paired well with the sausage. 2010 was a banner year for Finger Lakes reds, so this would also age well ( oh well too late for that!)
     "Rover" Jon texted me saying he opened the Forge Riesling 2011 tonight. Here are his comments: "Nice and dry.  Mineral flavor (definitely grapes from Seneca Lake). The flavor hits you then ends quick. Very refreshing."
     Which reminds me that this up coming weekend is the "Riesling Release Party" at the New York Wine and Culinary Center (www.nywcc.com). It will be held Friday night starting at 7:00 pm. We are going, will you join us?

New Wineries on Keuka Lake

Our "Rovers," Jon and Maggie scouted out a new winery for us!  Célene and Sébastien LeSeurre are the winemakers and owners of Domaine LeSeurre, located in Hammondsport, NY on Keuka Lake. Jon reports that the wines are good - "buttery-ish on the Rieslings".  He said it is very slight, but a nice addition!  

 There is also another winery tasting room coming to the same area - near Dr. Frank in Hammondsport. Point of the Bluff winery is actually located on the bluff at the point between the 2 forks of Keuka Lake, but the tasting room is opening on Memorial Day on the Hammondsport side.  Michael Countryman is the winemaker.  We have lots of new places to try! 

Canandaigua Wine Walk and Dinner

     Despite the 38 degree weather with a windchill of- I don't know, 4 below?-  Jim and I braved the Canandaigua Wine Walk today. There were several good wineries represented - Hermann J. Wiemer, Lamoreaux  Landing, and a new one we wanted to try - Point of the Bluff Winery (Keuka Lake). It is always a fun time on the wine or beer walks because of the people you meet along the way and the new places you discover. Today we met a couple from Connecticut who moved to the area four years ago because their children are here. We had a great time comparing wineries we liked and I have a referral to their daughter's hair salon! We also discovered some new businesses in town that we will be sure to frequent.  Some highlights were Point of the Bluff's Semi Dry Riesling, Lamoreaux Landing's 2009 Chardonnay and Knapp Winery's Vignoles ( a semi sweet white wine that our daughter will like and will also be a great summertime sipper if the ice ever melts off the lake). We discovered Good Life Tea Company on S. Main Street-  specializing in awesome teas and we visited a favorite, F. Oliver's  to purchase an infused EVOO.
     We returned home to our marinating (soy sauce, sherry, ground ginger, brown sugar and garlic) salmon. Dinner was grilled salmon, asparagus drizzled with F. Oliver's Garden Fresh Gremolata extra virgin olive oil (lemon, parsley and garlic), brown rice, salad and Hedonistic Chocolate's Dark Chocolate Orange Cranberry Bark for dessert. Forge Cellar 2011 Pinot Noir (smokey/complex) accompanied the salmon perfectly and was outstanding with the dark chocolate. So we continue to eat good food and drink good wines to stave off the cold weather that just keeps coming....

P.S. Point of the Bluff will open their new tasting room on the west side of Keuka Lake on Memorial Day.

Fox Run’s Winemaker’s Dinner Returns with a Bang!

March 23^rd.  I’m looking outside at the snowflakes swirling around the house and thinking about how much it feels like February! When will this winter end? My mind starts to drift back to February – Valentine’s Day and the phenomenal Winemaker’s Dinner we enjoyed at Fox Run.

The Barrel Room softly lit with strings of white lights… the long table decorated warmly with grapevines and candles… the tantalizing aroma from the kitchen…. It was so good to be back at Fox Run Vineyards for a winemaker’s dinner!  Chef Brud Holland created a 5-course dinner to knock the socks off the Valentine’s Day guests.  Winemaker Peter Bell paired the perfect Fox Run wines with each course.  This dinner was exceptional!

As we entered, we were greeted warmly and given a glass of sparking wine by Scott and Ruth Osborn – the winery owners.  Locally made cheeses (Muranda Cheese Company, Waterloo), breads (Wide Awake Bakery) and sausage selections (Autumn’s Harvest, Romulus) filled the appetizer table. The 30 guests chatted, renewed friendships, and claimed their places at the table. 

We sat down and met our surrounding dinner companions as the first course was served: Autumn’s  Harvest Cornish Game Hen and a Biscuit with Riesling and Sweet Onion Gravy.  The earthy, rich flavors of the game hen paired beautifully with the Fox Run 2010 Reserve Chardonnay.  I might have thought that Riesling would have been served as there was Riesling in the gravy, but the Chardonnay was the perfect savory match.  Peter spoke of “umami” in his wine description and it was clearly evident in this pairing. (Check out Umami –the “beautiful taste, Jon Rowley’s discussion of the meaning of umami at http://jonrowley.com/2010/09/02/umami/).  This wine and this food pairing enabled both to be the best that they could be! I could have stopped right there, but there was so much more to come!

            Course 2: Scallops with Freekah Risotto, Verjooz glaze and Micro Greens paired with the 2012 Gewurztriminer.  Again a home run!  The floral notes of the Gewurztriminer didn’t give a hint as to how well it paired with the richness of the scallops, “risotto”, and tangy Verjooz.  Verjooz is a product created by Tina Hazlitt (Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards) and the late Deb Whiting of Red NewtCellars from half-ripe Cabernet Franc grapes.  While “verjus” has been around since the Middle Ages and is used world–wide, there are only a handful of producers of it in the U.S. It can be used in recipes calling for  gourmet vinegar, lemon or lime. When used as a replacement, it becomes harmonious with the wine served due to it’s pH level.  While various grapes can be used to make verjus, Verjooz uses Cabernet Franc grapes because they are food friendly. This article gives a great overview of  Verjooz: http://www.fltimes.com/arts_and_entertainment/article_62115342-9abf-11e1  The “Freekah” Risotto is made from Freekah, which Brud Holland describes as “a green wheat which is harvested, sundried, toasted and cracked to cook faster.  It cooks up like barley and is high in fiber.” He substituted it for the arborio rice used in risotto – thus the name! Delicious and local.

            Course 3: Duet of Tenderloin- Herbed Beef (with fresh thyme) and Pork Tenderloin (with dried rosemary), and Farmer Ground Polenta.  The meats, cooked to perfection, paired scrumptiously with the 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon. (a fantastic year for Finger Lakes reds).  I couldn’t decide which herbed meat combination I liked better, they were both so delicious! I savored each taste of the wine, the meats and the polenta.

            Course 4:  Finger Lakes Caesar Salad, which was a wonderful marriage of Finger Lakes Fresh Hydroponic Romaine served over oven roasted root vegetables with just the right amount of Caesar dressing and Muranda Asiago-Provolone cheeses.  Now what would you pair with this? Riesling maybe? Probably Pinot Noir wouldn’t be your first choice but with the root vegetables to bring out the earthiness, the 2010 Pinot Noir was perfect.  

            OK by this point I was ready to be rolled home – so much good food!  But there was one more surprise to end the evening: Trifle, Truffles and Tuiles!  This was Chocolate Raspberry Trifle – Chocolate Cake, Raspberries Dark Chocolate Truffles and Tuiles  (Crisp Wafer cookies).   Throughout the evening, Brud was assisted by Chef Christian Thirion, (described by Brud as a “Renaissance man” who originally trained as a pastry chef in France) The Tuiles was a successful joint effort of recipes, measurements and alliteration!  Such a decadent dessert combination was made even more so when paired with Peter’s Fine Old Tawny Port.  An absolute firework finish to a fabulous meal.

            Wow – what an evening! There was a wonderful sense of community throughout - from using locally sourced ingredients to new friendships forged at the table.  And isn’t that what great food and wine relished and shared among people is all about? We are so blessed in this area to have such talented, creative artisans who share their gifts with each other and (thank goodness) with us! Thank-you Fox Run! Cheers!

P.S. A special thank you to Brud Holland for his help with the culinary details of this post.  Brud, a “Renaisssance Man” himself, is very approachable and can be found at various food and wine pairing events in the Finger Lakes.

Many of the locally sourced products used in this dinner were obtained through Finger Lakes Farms

http://ilovenyfarms.com.